Why The Little Black Dress is So Much More Than Just a Dress

By: Sidney Howell

The little black dress. When you hear that, you may think of Audrey Hepburn slinking past Tiffany’s with a croissant in one hand and a cigarette in the other. Or, you may think of that one Polaroid from the 90s your mom always shows you as she exclaims “see how my smile looked just like yours!” The little black dress has been around for over 100 years and continues to be a force in fashion. Not only is it a perfect fashion piece to have, but it has also been a catalyst for change. Whether one is hanging in your closet or you see your favorite celebrity wearing one on the red carpet, the little black dress is one of the most iconic pieces of fashion for a reason. 

Dubbed “The Chanel Ford” by Vogue in its 1926 debut, the little black dress was created by Coco Chanel. Similar to a Model- T, the little black dress was simple, durable, and accessible. In Chanel’s revolutionary sketches, her dress featured a drop waist, straight silhouette, and hit above the ankles. Chanel wanted to make a dress that was versatile and open to everyone, no matter what they looked like or what class they were in. It was a stark contrast against the styles of the Victorian era, which were extravagant and restrictive. This dress built upon the momentum of the flapper style of the 1920s, whose style represented a cultural shift against the restrictive norms of the times. But, unlike the opulence of the flapper styles, this dress reflected the simplicity of life that preceded the Great Depression.  

This dress also made the color black mainstream in fashion for the first time. Previously, the color black was strictly only worn in times of mourning or by religious figures. Using the color black in high fashion was unprecedented for the time, but it quickly gained popularity. This dress made the color black synonymous with elegance and modernity. Chanel was known to love dark colors and she wanted to rebel against the colorful and flamboyant dresses of the times.  It quickly attracted the attention of other famous designers, such as Givenchy and Dior, who popularized the dress further. The little black dress was prominent in Dior’s ‘New Look’ of the 1950’s, which featured a wasp waist and a full skirt. Similarly, Givenchy’s spin on the little black dress pioneered the ‘cocktail dress’ and his designs for Audrey Hepburn revitalized the dress in the 60’s. 

In the same 1926 issue, Vogue predicted that the little black dress would be “the frock that all the world will wear”. This was one of the first articles of clothing that was truly accessible. While someone could buy a little black dress from a fashion house such as Chanel, this dress could also easily be made at home. It could also be dressed up or down, perfect for work or for a gala when worn with a string of pearls. A dress this simple surprised the nation, as nobody thought a woman would elect to wear a simple black dress. Once the original shock wore off, it quickly became a uniform for all women. Due to its accessibility, this dress became known as ‘fashion’s great equalizer’, as it helped lessen the class distinctions that were once stark due to differences in dress. 

Not only did it take the fashion world by storm, but it was a direct rebellion against the social constructs of the Victorian era, which emphasized modesty and submissiveness for women. In the Victorian era, women were largely confined to the domestic sphere and were expected to act as the moral compass for their family. The styles of these times directly reflected these ideas- women wore heavy skirts, corsets, and high necklines. This dress signaled a shift away from these confines and reflected the growing strength of women in society. Due to its loose structure and shorter hemline, this dress provided more mobility and freedom, which was on par for the ‘new woman’. This ‘new woman’ was more visible and vocal in society, as they could now vote and had entered the workforce post World War 2.

Today, the little black dress is still a staple in almost every woman’s closet. While wearing the color black is no longer ground breaking, we can largely attribute the de-stigmatization of the color to the dress. All major fashion houses have put their own spin on the little black dress and celebrities from every era could be seen wearing one- whether that was Audrey Hepburn in Givenchy or Princess Diana in her ‘revenge dress’. The little black dress continues to act as a vehicle for change, such as when Billy Porter wore one to the 2019 Oscars, challenging typical gender norms in fashion. The little black dress also continues to grace our televisions, on shows such as Friends or Sex in the City, or on the silver screen, such as in the Bond movies. It is clear that today or in the future , the simpleness of a little black dress will let the strength and beauty of the wearer shine through.  

So, the next time you watch Breakfast at Tiffany’s or when mom pulls out the picture book, take a moment to think about the rich history of the little black dress. What began as a seemingly simple design has turned into a cornerstone in fashion that is sure to last until the end of time. Whether seen in everyday life or on the movie screens, the little black dress has evolved to become so much more than just fashion- it represents the evolution, elegance, and enduring strength of women everywhere.