The Absurd Allure of Fugly Shoes
Courtesy of MSCHF
Written By: Jordan Francis
Clifford, you’ve got competition. MSCHF left a gigantic digital footprint in February, releasing the Big Red Boot, a cartoonish clunky shoe inspired by the ruddy rubber stompers from Astro Boy. The campaign starring model Sarah Snyder in New York City went viral, blurring the lines between art and artifice. Oklahoma City Thunder point guard Shai Gilgeous-Alexander was one of the first celebrities to be spotted in the boots, and in my opinion the only person that has styled them correctly. The boots are a pair of crimson red, high-top shoes that look as though they were made in the metaverse. Described as “cartoon boots for a cool 3D world” by MSCHF, these boots represent hyperreality in fashion. Hyperreality is the inability to distinguish reality from its representations. According to Gabriel Whaley, founder of MSCHF, the continued blending of reality and virtual aesthetics has us chasing supernormal stimuli, and the boots are a product of that chase. Thus, its cartoonish aurora is an abstraction that frees us from the constraints of reality. Priced at $350, there were enough clowns out there that are into cosplay to sell out the limited drop within minutes. If you’re unfamiliar with MSCHF, the New York-based art collective utilizes its product releases to subvert mass/ popular culture and comment on different aspects of capitalism (often controversial). They’ve released boots that resemble medical casts, Birkenstock sandals made from Hermès Birkins, and even Nike Air Max 97s in collaboration with Lil Nas X dubbed the “Satan shoes” featuring a bronze pentagram, an inverted cross and a drop of real human blood.
For the fashion-forward, footwear is more than an essential component of an outfit, a well-chosen shoe can define a statement look. Previously, quiet luxury dominated the runways at brands like Hermès, Prada, and The Row, right now the focus is on statement-making shoes that border on looking ridiculous. The more outlandish, the better. In a world of increasingly silly shoes— from Balenciaga’s steroid boot to Loewe’s Daisy Duck heels— there’s been an underlying trend of fugly footwear. When did it all start? Part trousers, part sneaker, Balenciaga’s Speed debuted in 2016. The Speed was knitted and perched on top of a rubber sole, creating a seamless transition between sock and shoe. Bottega Veneta continued the trend for Fall 2020 with its Puddle Boot. Made with a sleek, continuous shell and built with a globular silhouette, the Puddle made a splash due to its lightweight feel, sustainable fabrication, and wide palette of colors. JW Anderson delivered a polarizing frog slipper swiftly named “2023’s ugliest shoe” (in the best way) by British Vogue. Elsewhere, Rick Owens’s orthopedic take on his best-selling platform boots, Area’s lace-up faux fur stilettos, Eckhaus Latta’s chunky-moss green clogs, and Marni’s fuzzy mules also stood out.
Maison Margiela’s Tabi used to be controversial, an “if you know, you know” sort of, shoe that only fashion elitists would wear on an ordinary day. Now, celebrities and influencers alike wear these formerly divisive shoes with as little fanfare as a pair of dirty Air Force 1s. Have we entered a new age of normalizing unconventional shoes? Sure, the Big Red Boots are expensive and probably hellish to walk in. And yes, in a few seasons, we’ll probably be enamored with a different type of shoe. But for now, don’t resist the appeal of a fugly shoe.