The Birkin Bag and Its Iconic History

Courtesy of The Mirror

Written By: Sidney Howell

“It’s not a bag… It’s a Birkin” were the iconic words said to Samantha on the hit show “Sex and the City”. Even before those words were uttered in 2001, the Birkin Bag had already become one of the most sought-after and iconic bags. Today, it has retained its status as one of the most exclusive, and expensive, bags on the market. This bag was created in 1984, and while the bag did not garner immediate popularity, it has become greatly desired today, with many references to the Birkin Bag in pop culture and now on TikTok.

The Birkin Bag was created by the luxury fashion house Hermes, which started in 1837 as a leather workshop by Thierry Hermes. He specialized in making horse harnesses which combined durability with artistry. The leather shop grew in the late 1800s to early 1900s, as it started to produce saddles, harnesses, men’s ready to wear clothing, and jewelry. In the 1950s, their iconic silk scarves were released, as well as the iconic Kelly bag, which was named after the Hollywood star Grace Kelly. Finally, in the early 1970s, the first woman’s ready-to-wear collection was released, as well as Jean-Louis Dumas taking the reins and bringing Hermes worldwide. Not only did Jean-Louis Dumas diversify the house and embrace new areas of business, but he also created the Birkin bag.

The Birkin was born on a late flight from Paris to London, where Dumas happened to be seated next to Jane Birkin. Jane Birkin, who recently passed away, was a famous English actress, singer, and model. She is best known for her song “Je T’aime… Moi Non-Plus” and her movie "Blowup." She also revolutionized the “French- girl style” in the 1970s as she was known for her baby doll dresses, tousled bangs, and crocheted clothes. Birkin was not a style icon, but she was extremely involved with philanthropy and a human rights activist. 

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Jane Birkin was most well-known for carrying around a wicker basket, filled to the brim with her items. On this 1981 flight, Birkin put her bag in the upper head compartment and all of her items came tumbling out. Jean-Louis Dumas noticed the distress of Jane and helped her pick her items up. As they sat down in their plane seats, Dumas introduced himself as the creative director of Hermes and they discussed the downfalls of the leather bags on the market, including their small sizes. On the back of a barf bag, Dumas and Birkin sketched their ideal version of a leather bag. Thus, the Birkin Bag was created, and has since become immortalized.

As Hermes is known for its expert craftsmanship, it comes as no surprise that the Birkin is made from the highest-quality leather and made with extreme care. All Hermes bags are created in France and one single artisan hand-sewn the entire bag. This can take up to 18 hours, and these artisans need to be trained and working for Hermes for at least five years before they can craft a Birkin. Birkins are made with a variety of leathers, ranging from calf leather to ostrich to crocodile. Their sizes are the 25, 30, 35, and 40 cm options and there are many colors, with the more vibrant ones being more difficult to get.

Courtesy of Byrdie

Now the most important question: how do you get one? A Birkin is extremely difficult to obtain, and it can take years to finally score one of the most sought-after bags on the market. Since only 12,000 Birkins are made every year, this scarcity drives up the value of the Birkin tremendously. The supply is much lower than its demand and has caused the bag to be considered a Veblen good (a luxury item where demand increases as its price increases.) The price of a Birkin can range from $10,000 to $300,000, and not just anybody can waltz into a store to buy a Birkin. Instead, a Hermes sales associate will offer you the iconic bag, normally only after you have a well-established purchase history from the house. There even used to be a waiting list for Birkins, which was up to six years long. Additionally, you can purchase a Birkin second hand at boutiques or online at websites such as TheRealReal.

The most expensive Birkin bag ever sold: The Himalayan Birkin for nearly $400,000.

Courtesy of Madison Avenue Couture

The Birkin bag has a rich history with inspiration taken from an extraordinary woman. Through the years, the Birkin has risen in popularity and can be seen dangling off the arms of celebrities such as Kim Kardashian, or stowed by collectors, like Drake for his future wife. Also, if you need to girl-math the purchase of a Birkin bag, a 2016 study found that a Birkin may be a better investment than stocks or gold. The resale market for Birkins is very lucrative and this study found that over a 35-year span, the annual return on a Birkin was 14.2%, whereas the S&P 500 averaged an annual return of 8.7%. Therefore, following the logic of girl-math, a Birkin is basically free, as well as an iconic investment. 

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